I was talking to a co-worker recently about travel experiences, and I wanted to record this one for posterity.
One of the best (but also worst) trips I've ever been on was to the Dominican Republic with my best friend,
Ying Ying. We went for New Year's, 2001. I had studied abroad there the summer before, and she had a good friend who lived in the capital. I speak Spanish and she is very well-traveled, so it seemed like the perfect trip.
Our problems were so numerous and varied that I don't know where to start - from the check-in assistant in Atlanta that kept my return tickets, to Ying Ying's friend not being there to pick us up when we landed, to us staying at the strangest hotel I have ever stayed in. It was a converted hospital. They had painted, and carpeted, but when you walked down the hall, there was an empty nurse's station. It was just creepy. No other word for it.
We spent a few fairly stress-free days in the capital after hooking up with Ying Ying's friend.
We then headed to the smaller town that I had lived in, Santiago. We caught up with some of my Dominican friends and had a great New Year's celebration.
We decided to go to the beach for the last few days we were there.
As our trip was winding down, we headed back to Santiago. We were both running out of money (we were in college) so I decided to use my local knowledge and language skills to land us a cheap ride back to Santiago.
In the D.R., there are buses for tourists, buses for locals, taxis for tourists, taxis for locals, etc. I found a local "taxi" that drove a regular route between Punta Cana (the beach) and Santiago. The cars they use are about the size of a Corolla, and they seat 2 in the front passenger's seat, and four in the back. Ying Ying and I were lucky to sit in the back together. The driver was a man, but all of the other passengers were local women.
If you've ever ridden in a car in Latin America, you know that many Latin American drivers believe traffic rules are more like guidelines than actual laws. Generally they are safe drivers, but they just don't drive the way Americans are used to. There have been several times riding in cars in Latin America that I've felt panic rise up in my throat, but my rule of thumb is that if the locals aren't worried, I'm not worried.
We were getting close to Santiago when the driver announced "Tengo que parar afuera de la cuidad porque no tengo los frenos."
This is what I understood: "I have to stop outside of the city because I don't have 'frenos.'"
Immediately all of the local women started screaming at him. They were visibly angry. I got scared. I kept hearing them repeat the word I didn't understand "Frenos."
"¿Como es que no tienes frenos, carajo?"
"¿Estas loco? ¿Porque no lo deciste antes?"
...
"How is it you don't have 'frenos' [censored]
? Are you crazy? Why didn't you say so sooner?"
The driver was angry and defensive. The women were livid.
They yelled back and forth for a few minutes until I finally managed to get out "¿Que son frenos? ¿Que significa?"
"What are 'frenos?' What does that mean?"
The woman beside me turned and said "La cosa que hace el coche ir mas despacio. Solo tiene la emergencia."
"The thing that slows the car down. He only has the emergency."
BRAKES!! He had driven us for an hour without brakes! He only had his emergency brake. I had noticed he seemed to be using it liberally, but didn't think anything of it.
Ying Ying asked me what was going on, and I told her I'd tell her later.
We had to catch another taxi to make it all the way back into town. Given the excitement of that ride, we splurged on a tourist taxi to take us back to Santo Domingo for our flight out. Unfortunately that almost resulted in us having to beg some tourists for the exit tax. (Did you know many countries charge you a tax to leave? They do!) We scraped, changed our last few dollars, and boarded the plane.
I'm still an adventurous traveller, but I will never travel quite so adventurously again. Tourists buses are fine by me.